Good morning. Maybe you’re gearing up already for tonight’s viewing of “When Harry Met Sally” or “The Poseidon Adventure” or “Sunset Boulevard,” whatever narrative gets you through the last evening of the year. Maybe you’re cleaning your cuff links or steaming your dress, getting ready to eat lightly, drink moderately and make like Ginger Rogers at the club. Some will roast a goose, or a beef tenderloin, still others will gussy up some cup ramen and call it a night. I’d like to think it a night for luxury, myself. I’ve mentioned Gabrielle Hamilton’s ace recipe for a caviar sandwich. You might assay Amanda Hesser’s take on the caviar croque-monsieur (above) that Eric Ripert ginned up at Le Bernardin in the go-go ’90s. Melissa Clark has a neat recipe for caviar potato chips with lemon cream. Me, I’m leaning toward the crab Newburg they used to serve at Cross Creek in Florida, when Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings ran the show. It’s rich as Croesus. Or the chili lobster with Texas toast I learned to make from the chef Marc Forgione in New York, likewise. (Variation on a theme: seared scallops with hot sauce beurre blanc.) For the crabs and lobster and… Read full this story
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